This is the fifth of my postings on the fundamentals for novice shooters.

TRIGGER CONTROL

The controlled release of the trigger lies at the heart of performing a good shot on target. All of the other fundamentals can be perfectly performed but they mean nothing if the trigger release is faulty, because it will spoil the aim and sight alignment at the crucial moment when the shot is fired. Thus, trigger control is an equally critical fundamental with sight alignment.

Your trigger finger must apply pressure to the trigger in a direct line back toward the aiming eye. For this, the finger must be correctly positioned, with the center of the pad of the first joint (or whatever works for you) touching the trigger. The trigger finger must be clear of the frame and grips so as not to move the pistol as the pad is pulled straight back. ONLY THE TRIGGER FINGER MOVES. Grip pressure of the other fingers must remain static (see the post on "Grip").

Trigger finger pressure must be constant, smooth, and progressive. Once you start applying pressure, continue until the gun fires... do not "stop-start" the trigger for usually only a very skilled shooter can do that successfully (because each stop-start requires the breaking of the trigger's inertia and that causes movement). The "keep the trigger moving" mantra for rapid fire applies to all trigger pulls.

In slow fire, the timing of the hammer fall should practiced so that the release of the shot coincides with the steadiest part of your hold, which is approximately 6-10 seconds after you start the aiming process. In sustained fire, the hammer fall coincides with returning to an acceptable sight picture.

Keep your finger pad centered on the trigger. Too high decreases leverage and the pull feels harder, too low and the shot may fire before you are ready. You must be consistent in your trigger finger placement. Don't be afraid to experiment in training with different placements till you find the one that gives you the steadiest straight back pull.

Trust in your ability to hold and minimize wobble and the eye's ability to center the sights to form a sight picture and pull the trigger smoothly and continuously without trying to "snatch" a shot or jerk the trigger. You can start out with a slow release and with experience and lots of dry fire trigger time, you can increase your trigger speed without additional movement.

With two stage triggers, take up the first stage completely and add slight prepressure to the second stage (the amount of which depends on your "trigger sense" acquired with experience) just before settling in on your aim and alignment. This works well with slow fire. For sustained fire, take up the first stage in recoil recovery and keep the trigger moving. Again, do not "stop-start" as it will destroy your rhythm and cadence (the only exception is if you recover badly and do not have a sight picture which will give you a shot in the bull).

Work toward unconsciously activating the trigger, such that the shot becomes a surprise break to you. This will help in avoiding flinching or anticipated recoil. This is difficult to master, but with practice and patience, it will be achieved. When trigger pull becomes automatic, your brain is free to focus on the other critical fundamental....sight alignment. Just as your eye cannot focus on two objects simultaneously, you brain cannot focus on two separate fundamentals at the same time. All the fundamentals should be done on auto-pilot, but if you have to focus on one, then let it be sight alignment when shooting with iron sights and when you are using a scope, you can let your focus be on trigger pull (since a sight picture is so easily done with a scope).

One of the best ways to develop trigger control, speed and a feel for your particular gun's trigger is to dry fire. I know it is boring compared to live fire, but if you have long periods between matches, it can substitute as practice.

Ron Steinbrecher